Pieropan Calvarino 2023: Volcanic Mountain Masterpiece in Soave’s Crown Jewel: benchmark for Italian whites: case of six bottles delivered

Calvarino Vineyard: Pieropan’s Century-Old Volcanic Sanctuary and the Triumphant 2023 Vintage

A beacon of Soave’s volcanic heritage, the Calvarino vineyard embodies Pieropan’s pioneering spirit—delivering wines of profound minerality, elegance and longevity, with the 2023 vintage emerging as a stellar expression of freshness and complexity at an unbeatable value.

Nestled in the heart of Soave Classico, the Calvarino vineyard has been the cornerstone of the Pieropan family’s estate since its acquisition in 1901, marking it as their oldest holding. The name “Calvarino,” derived from “little Calvary,” aptly captures the arduous labour required to cultivate its steep, terraced slopes—rising from 200 to 300 meters above sea level in a natural amphitheater with south-southwest exposure. This challenging terrain, blanketed in ancient volcanic basalt soils rich in clay and tuff, demands hand-harvesting under traditional pergola training, but rewards with wines of unparalleled purity and structure.

Planted predominantly with 70% Garganega and 30% Trebbiano di Soave vines averaging 60 years old, the site benefits from a unique microclimate that amplifies the terroir’s smoky minerality and saline grip. Under the visionary Leonildo “Nino” Pieropan, who revolutionized Soave in the 1970s by advocating lower yields and hillside focus, Calvarino became Italy’s first single-vineyard white wine in 1971—a groundbreaking move that highlighted the site’s potential for terroir-driven expressions. Today, fourth-generation brothers Andrea and Dario Pieropan continue this legacy, farming organically since 2008 and emphasising sustainability across their 58-hectare estate.

The vineyard’s volcanic origins impart a taut, layered profile: aromas of alpine herbs, white peach and flint, with a palate balancing creamy lees texture from nine months’ aging against vibrant acidity.The 2023 vintage elevates Calvarino’s storied reputation, shaped by a mild, dry winter followed by a rainy, cool spring that challenged vine management but replenished soils for robust growth. This resulted in smaller berries and a generous harvest, yielding wines of vibrant freshness, refined fragrance and exceptional minerality—true to the year’s authentic character.

Critics rave: Wine Enthusiast awards 98 points, describing it as “Soave’s soul in liquid form, where generations of wisdom meet volcanic soils in perfect harmony,” with notes of alpine herbs, crushed stones, ripe citrus and silky texture.

James Suckling scores 95, praising its “cool and herbal” vitality, delicacy and lime-zest freshness.

Decanter gives 93, emphasising its firm mineral backbone. Approachable now yet built to evolve through 2030+, this vintage pairs brilliantly with seafood or light poultry, showcasing why Calvarino remains a benchmark for Italian whites—profound depth at everyday prices.