Francois Merlin Saint-Joseph Les Grands Ducs 2021: aristocratic and rich Syrah with depth and density, from one of the most exciting names in the Northern Rhône: a delicious wine to lay down: case of six bottles delivered

92/100 Matt Walls, Decanter
17/20 Alistair Cooper MW, JancisRobinson.com

The St-Joseph Les Grands Ducs (named after the eagle owls that nest there) is an extremely favourable terroir – a sunny vineyard of granite and schist in St-Pierre-de-Boeuf. Rich and aristocratic, this large-scale wine presents magnificent fruit enhanced by well-marked spices, coated with well-controlled woodiness. The finish will improve even further after two or three years of ageing.

Notes Matt Walls of Decanter: ‘Medium-bodied, fresh and precise with good acidity, neat tannins, decent concentration and a smoky touch over the forest berry fruits that brings some complexity. Really quite zesty acidity coupled with strict tannins suggest that after a few years this will be a lovely wine. The oak work is robust. 2,300 bottles produced. 92/100.’

Alistair Cooper MW, JancisRobinson.com tasted blind and notes: ‘Creamy notes on the nose with candied violets and earthy notes. A rich dense palate with dark fruits, spice, very fine tannins and dominant oak. Has some cola notes and richness. Quite introverted at the moment but appealing depth and density. 17/20’

François Merlin, who began first and foremost a farmer, now nears retirement with a reputation as one of the Rhone’s most referenced producers. He learned about the complexities of viticulture and grape growing under one of the great names in Cote Rotie, Domaine René Rostaing, and planted his first St-Joseph vines in 1989 while still studying agriculture. His wines are precise, yet full of energy, and his attention to detail is second to none. Everything is considered during his process, with no corners cut, and the results speak for themselves.

Francois Merlin Saint-Joseph Les Grands Ducs 2021. Case of six bottles. RRP £260. CCUK £179 including UK mainland delivery (courier supplement for Highlands & Islands).

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