Fairways to Heaven
Portugal has long been considered the preferred alternative to Spain’s fairways, but with so many options, which to choose? Andy Mossack plucks out some jewels from a very large crown.
Portugal reveals its beauty and charm in such a modest, understated way, one wonders why. Perhaps as a nation of exploring seafarers the Portuguese take natural beauty for granted. The mighty Atlantic waves carve out a brutal and dramatic coastline, while, on land, sun-bleached vineyards produce many a delicate vintage. At the same time it seethes with history, with Lisbon, one of Europe’s greatest cities, at its beating heart.
Whatever else, this is a landscape that is perfect for golf. If you are seeking a golfing break with some culture between shots, as well as sea and sand, then Lisbon and Estoril on the west coast are for you. If you prefer your golf with large slices of relaxation and repose, then it is down to the Algarve in the south. Both regions offer outstanding courses, elegant hotels and fine food, and of course the understated natural beauty of Portugal.
Estoril
Only a 20-minute drive from Lisbon, Estoril is often overlooked because of its proximity to Portugal’s capital. Yet its classic elegance is the perfect foil to the majestic backdrop of the Sintra–Cascais national park that surrounds it on three sides. A place of natural beauty, the park’s spectacularly rugged scenery is home to a vast array of wildlife; it is a magnet for birdwatchers.
Estoril was the place to be in the early 1900s, when it was known as the Portuguese Riviera. The well-heeled flocked there to see and be seen promenading along the lovely beaches, gardens and palaces, as elegant today as they were then. The region as a whole offers a seemingly endless amount of dramatic and ever-changing scenery, culminating in the extraordinary town of Sintra, the end-of-summer getaway of the Royal families more than a century ago and now an official World Heritage site. Simply put, it is one of the most unusual and magical places to experience in Europe. The centrepieces are The Pena Palace and Park (which many say was the inspiration for Cinderella’s castle in Disney’s Magic Kingdom); the mystical and symbolic Quinta da Regaleira Palace with its tunnels, magical grottos, fountains and gothic architecture, and, at Sintra’s highest point, the Moorish Castle offering outstanding views right across the mountains and down to the Atlantic.
WHERE TO PLAY
Estoril Golf Club
5,844 yards Par 69
Estoril’s oldest course, opened in 1936, it has hosted the Portuguese Open more than 20 times. It may seem on the short side at first glance, but its sweepingly dramatic hills, valleys and tight fairways are fiendishly tricky, and you will be hard-pressed to find a more testing par 3 than the 16th with a shot right over the ocean. Standing there, high up on the tees, you will have wonderful views of the Atlantic Ocean and the Sintra Mountains all around you.
Penha Longa
6,919 yards Par 72
One look at Penha Longa will take your breath away. Designed by Robert Trent Jones Jr, it has it all—velvety rolling fairways and some deviously sloping greens in true Trent Jones style. This beautifully manicured course is ranked high in the top 30 courses in Europe, with stunning Sintra hills on one side and some glorious Atlantic vistas on the other. Look out for the wonderful, water-strewn, par 5 6th, with its genuine Roman aqueduct adjacent to the lake-protected green. A true masterpiece.
Quinta da Marinha
6,429 yards par 71
Another Robert Trent Jones masterpiece, which flirts with the ocean on holes 3, 4 and 5, and, not content with seawater, adds freshwater hazards on others. Quinta’s greens are deadly fast and difficult to read. Not least, the punishing 18th that navigates over two lakes before finishing in front of the hotel to a welcoming cool drink no doubt.
WHERE TO STAY
Palacio Estoril Hotel & Golf
With its grand gardens, elegant 1930s architecture, royal clientele and stunning sea views, the five-star Palacio rightly holds court in the heart of town. Featured in the Bond movie On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, and in keeping with the Bond theme, adjacent to Estoril’s famous casino, espionage and intrigue have been a part of the hotel’s history since it opened. Legend has it that this was the meeting point for spies and informants during the war and beyond. All 161 rooms come with the luxury touches that befit its elite status and with the recent opening of the wellness and thermal spa, your relaxation time is complete. As the hotel also owns the beautiful Estoril Golf Club you will enjoy exclusive tee times and greatly reduced green fees.
Hotel Quinta da Marinha Resort
Nestling between the coast and the national park, and only a few minutes from Cascais and Estoril, the five-star Quinta da Marinha’s 250 acres offer a mix of hotel and villa accommodation and a championship golf course on your doorstep. All the public areas, 200 rooms and 44 villas have recently undergone a £5 million facelift under the watchful eye of new owners. You will also find at least an acre of ground taken up with the chef’s herb garden which services the three restaurants including Monte Mar, a seafood restaurant above the ocean, and there is the lively Trent Jones bar that offers light meals and drinks around the outdoor pool next to the 18th green. A small cocktail at sunset with some Vivaldi in the background can be no bad thing after a hard day’s golf.
Vila Bicuda Villa Resort
This four-star self-catering resort is a cluster of 78 contemporary studios and villas within landscaped gardens next to Quinta da Marinha golf course, and the ideal base for groups or families of up to seven people. All the properties have fully-fitted kitchens, private furnished terraces, and spacious lounge areas with fireplaces for chilly evenings, and with two outdoor swimming pools, a supermarket, bar, bakery and Italian restaurant on site, you can just relax and enjoy the resort. If you do feel energetic, there is the golf of course, but also tennis, riding, sailing, surfing, windsurfing and kite surfing nearby.
THE ALGARVE
Unashamedly the resort capital of Portugal, the Algarve has developed into a golfing Mecca with more than 35 courses along its southerly coastline. The good news is that strict building regulations have averted over-development, so the region still offers plenty of local colour. Faro’s proximity to the airport has not blemished its lovely old town with its cobbled windy streets and restaurants where locals still enjoy traditional fare. And, farther along the coast, the lovely towns of Lagos, Loule and mountainous Monchique retain the laidback charm of yesteryear. There is plenty of shopping in Portimao, and Henry the Navigator’s school and the lighthouse at Cape St Vincent, right on the Algarve’s western tip at Vilo do Bispo, are must-sees.
For me, the area to base oneself is Almancil near the sumptuously exclusive Quinta do Lago estate. Not only because of the quality of the golf, the hotels and the restaurants there, but because it is right beside the Ria Formosa Nature reserve, a spectacular home for wildlife and flora, and it plays a key role in shaping the numerous courses along its border.
WHERE TO PLAY
The Quinta do Lago Estate
A veritable oasis of golf that has hosted the Portuguese Open eight times, the Quinta complex houses three courses, The North (par 72, and 6,738 yards), The South (par 72, and 7,150 yards) and the new The Laranjal (par 72 and 7128 yards). These Augusta-type courses, wind through scented pine forests and rolling hills and are filled with smooth, velvety fairways and ice-fast rolling greens. The Quinta courses are top-notch examples of what makes the game of golf such a spectacle.
San Lorenzo
6,825 yards Par 72
Next door to Quinta in the Vale do Lobo resort stands the magnificent San Lorenzo course. This course has captivated me time and time again with its sheer grandeur, outstanding design, and views of the Ria Formosa all around. The 6th is a tricky dog-leg round a mountain to the left and the banks of the Ria Formosa lapping on the right. Then there is the 8th, a wonderful par 5 over two lakes and on to an island green. The 18th is a majestic par 4 finish that is another very tough hole carrying water at least twice to another island green. Completing a round at San Lorenzo will leave you drained but begging do it all over again.
WHERE TO STAY
Dona Filipa
The luxury five-star Dona Filipa overlooks San Lorenzo’s 17th fairway and is a stone’s throw from Vale de Lobo’s beachfront and restaurant complex. It’s an elegant place, furnished throughout with tiled floors and marble hallways and fully deserves its legendary status. The spacious rooms have balconies overlooking the golf course or the ocean, and breakfast by the pool is accompanied by a colourful bird or two joining you for a croissant. The hotel owns San Lorenzo, so preferred tee times and generous green fees are guaranteed.
Formosa Park Apartment Hotel
The four-star Formosa Park has direct access to the sandy beach of Ancao only 300 yards away, almost as near to its own Pinheiros Altos golf course. The 61 spacious one- and two-bedroom apartments all come tastefully furnished with a kitchenette, satellite TV and internet, and glorious ocean views. There is a good restaurant and bar on the complex and a large outdoor pool and sun terrace.
If your tastes yearn for a more lively part of the coast, you should continue down the coast past the razzmatazz of Albufeira and stay right on the beach at the four-star Hotel Garbe in Armação de Pêra.
WHAT TO EAT
Of course fresh fish is abundant here, particularly sea bass, sea bream and more than 100 varieties of bacalhau, a form of dried cod. Estoril is famous for Cascais Sole. You will also find excellent examples of Queijadas de Sintra an absolute must-try snack made with a thin pastry case and filled with a mixture of sugar, egg, cinnamon, and fresh cheese. Let’s not forget the delightful Pasteis de Nata the little egg custard tarts that were born in Lisbon and have gone on to become Portugal’s national dish.
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