Budapest: a journey in time

ONLY a two-hour flight from London, the capital of Hungary embraces the River Danube in a mixture of culture, elegance, history and flair. You can stroll down tree-lined avenues built in the Hapsburg era, and relax in a fin-de-siecle cafe to watch dowager ladies gossip over delectable cakes as they have done since the 1800s. Luxuriate in Art Nouveau or Ottoman-era mineral baths, and take in an opera or classical concert at, say, the Spring Festival in March. Sure that our Members will wish to visit this beautiful and still authentic city, we have chosen six excellent Budapest hotels and negotiated Club rates starting at £79 per night for two, including tax. Tempted? Andy Mossack reveals just some of Budapest’s many attractions.

THE charm of Budapest lies in its mix of cosmopolitan chic and patrician elegance. It is a city of two halves: Buda, a hilltop citadel, the cobblestone Castle District; and Pest, brimming with theatres, clubs and swish shopping streets. Its architectural styles are diverse, and perhaps best seen from the nine bridges spanning the River Danube. It is also renowned for music, thanks to its great composers Liszt and Bartok, and to the continuing excellence of the music in its concert halls, the State Opera House, Franz Liszt Academy and Congress Centre. Take the Danube Promenade embankment for a memorable stroll along the famous river. In fact, with so many beautiful wide boulevards and Baroque, neo-classic and Art Nouveau buildings, one can understand why Budapest is referred to as the ‘Paris of the east’. So much to see, so little time …

1 Take a bath
Up to their chins in the hot thermal waters of Szechenyi baths’ outdoor pools, the two bácsis (crusty old uncles) in front of me were playing chess on a floating board as if nothing could be more normal. In fact, it is normal in Budapest. Floating chess is popular; in fact, taking in thermal springs is a way of life; the city is built over hot springs, and there are more than 100 emporia in which to take the waters. The splendour of the Art Nouveau Gellért and neo-Baroque Szechenyi baths, and Rudas, the Ottoman-inspired Turkish baths, with its octagonal pools, cupolas and stained glass windows, are historic favourites. Perhaps the most beautiful is the one the locals visit, the Szent Lukács gyógyfürdô. Take a lazy morning and let your joints rejoice in a warm thermal marinade and massage. Or drink from jugs of healing waters, drawn straight from the natural springs. Take a mud bath, rich in minerals and salts, and let your aches and illnesses slip away as you sit among Budapest’s literary society, who come to gossip and relax.

2 Listen to the music
One of Budapest’s greatest treasures is its music. Do not leave without attending at least one concert—excellent programmes devoted to Lizst and Bartok are frequent, and from March 18 to April 3 this year (2011) the city holds its annual Spring Festival. This, one of Europe's major cultural events, offers more than 200 opera, concert, ballet and theatrical performances. Outside the Spring Festival, however, any visit is still likely to coincide with a major concert.

3 Cross a bridge
Nine bridges connect Buda and Pest over the wide blue Danube, one of which is the Chain Bridge, the oldest crossing point in Budapest. Lit up at night, with the castle behind, the bridge is a sight to savour. Designed by Scottish engineer Willie Clark in 1839, it was one of the largest bridges in the world at the time, and still an imposing sight. A smaller version crosses the Thames at Marlow. Take a look at the two lions at each end. Familiar? They are replicas of the lions in Trafalgar Square, minus tongues. A weekend festival on the bridge, Summer on the Chain Bridge—this year from June 27 to July 19—is a joyous mix of orchestral and jazz concerts, with woodcarvers, embroiderers, lacemakers, potters and leather workers presenting their traditional crafts.

4 Visit a castle
Buda Castle and the whole Castle District contains three churches, six museums and the former Royal Palace, scene of countless battles since the 13th century. In fact, the whole district is symbolic of old Hungary and represents how Budapest was shaped through the centuries, from Turkish rule to the Hapsburgs, Nazis and Communists. The Matthias Church is more than 700 years old, and nearby, the view of the city from the Fisherman’s Bastion is exceptional, looking out at a particularly lovely part of the Danube.

5 Drink the wines
Hungarian wines are not only delicious, they are an essential part of everyday life; once the Buda Hills were covered with grapevines. Now one of the best places to taste these lovely wines—apart from the many bars and restaurants—is Buda Castle. Combine a visit to the castle with a tasting of the country's best wines and pálinkás in the vaulted stone cellar beneath the ramparts—what better way to absorb local culture?

6 Take a tram
The No 2 tram is a good way to see many major sights of Budapest in comfort as it rolls its way along the Danube on the Pest embankment. From its northern terminus at Jaszai Mariter it passes the Parliament building, then follows the river, taking in Matthias Church, Fisherman’s Bastion, the Castle District, Chain Bridge, Elizabeth Bridge, Gellert Hill, the Gellert Hotel and Baths and the new National Theatre and Palace of Arts. On the way back at the Liberty Bridge, visit the turn-of-the-century indoor Central Market Hall for a slice of fresh food shopping with the locals: their range of specialist foods says much about their culture.

7 Visit an island
Margaret Island has been a focal point in Budapest from its origins as royal hunting reserve in the 11th century to the lovely park it is today. Sandwiched between Arpad and Margaret bridges, the island is a peaceful haven—no traffic allowed. Stroll through century-old chestnut-lined avenues, English, Japanese and French gardens, and perhaps even lie on the beach and use the outdoor pool on a warm, sunny day. The island hosts an open-air festival, which this year (June 1 to August 31) will premiere productions of Aida and Evita. Reach the island on trams 4 or 6.

8 See the statues
After the fall of Communism in 1989 the many gargantuan statues and political monuments built by the regime were the subject of fierce debate. Many wanted to destroy them; instead, they were removed to what is now Memento Park, or Statue Park as some call it. This outdoor museum is a fascinating glimpse into Soviet rule and rulers. Go by trams 4, 18, 41 and 47.

9 Join the heroes
Heroes Square is perhaps the centre of Budapest’s universe. It is the entrance to the City Park, everybody’s favourite weekend venue. Inside is the zoo, the circus, the Szechenyl Public Baths, Vajdahunyad Castle and, just outside, an iconic restaurant, Gundel. The elegant Andrássy Avenue begins at Heroes Square, and some of Budapest’s most spectacular buildings line this 19th century avenue, including the State Opera House. There is even a piece of underground history here: Europe’s first metro, The Foldalatti, was built here and is still in use today more than 125 years later. Look for the descending stairs with wrought-iron banisters. If you are in the Park in May you may catch the National Gallop, which celebrates Hungary’s equestrian traditions.

10 Travel on strange vehicles
In the museum at Deak ter Station you can see the carriage built for Emperor Franz Joseph when the Foldalatti line was opened in 1896. The Funicular between the Castle District and Chain Bridge dates from 1870, the Cogwheel Railway connects Varosmajor and Szechenyl Hill, and the Chair Lift is an interesting way to travel from Janos Hill to Zugliget. Lastly, try out the RiverRide, an amphibious yellow coach that starts as a guided city tour by road, then plunges into the Danube for a river tour. A regular cruise along the Danube is not to be missed either, and there are plenty of options.

11 Go shopping
Jewellers, perfumeries, designer fashion boutiques, wine and gift shops adorn both sides of Vaci utca, making this the ultimate street for shopping in Budapest. On nearby Jozsef nador ter you will find Heren porcelain and in the Csok Gallery works of Hungarian art and antiques for sale. The Great Market Hall at the Pest end of Liberty Bridge is the oldest market in Budapest. The architecture itself is worth a visit, and on the upper floor Hungarian women in traditional dress sell authentic folk craft at sensible prices.

12 Eat, drink and be merry
Hungarians eat goulash often; it tastes quite unlike goulash in the rest of the world, and must be sampled, served with traditional nokedli or galuska, small semolina dumplings. Hungarian cooking is rich—the game and the foie gras can be exquisite. Apart from eating goulash, the way to assimilate the full flavour of Budapest is to join the café society: here, life revolves around the café and over a delicious coffee and Esterhazy cake you can absorb the full flavour. There are literally hundreds to choose from, the oldest being Ruszwurm in the Castle District, which opened in 1827, the grandest being the Central in V district, the loveliest is probably Angelika in Buda, and the most literary and famous, Café Gerbeaud (V district) and the New York Café (VII District).