Escape to the Greek Islands
Is it really possible to choose just the one Greek island for a couple of weeks’ stress-free escapism? Surely not. Far better instead to pick two or three and hop your way around the deep blue waters of the Med and enjoy an ever-changing slice of island life, Greek style. From the Cyclades and Dodecanese to the north-eastern Aegean and Sporades, there is a seductive assortment of white-on-white beaches, villages with a magical sense of stillness, gloriously informal tavernas. Here then is a trio of perfect getaways, each with their own distinct identity: the chic allure of Crete, the delightful contrasts of Mykonos and the serene charm of Chios.
Crete, down on the southernmost tip of Europe (just beating Cyprus to it), is large enough (the fifth biggest island in the Mediterranean) to comfortably play host to a number of very different experiences. The fifth biggest island in the Mediterranean, it is a land of constant surprises, perhaps more so if you are expecting soulless high-rise hotels and packed beaches. It is the most distinctive of the three islands here, the one that can easily stand alone away from the Greek mainland (indeed it only became part of Greece in 1913).
A fertile land of olive groves, vineyards and farmland rolling across the Lasithi plateau, it is easily the most foodie of the Greek islands. Factor in white sand beaches, cool mountain ranges and clear blue sea and this is as close to a modern-day paradise as Europe gets. No wonder the ancient gods were so enamoured with this place. It is a tranquil, hush-hush retreat with a casual Old World feel and easy approach to having a good time. Quaffing local wines while squinting in the sun is part of the rhythm of daily life here, a very Cretian take on pavement culture.
Lasithi, over on the eastern side, is the place to get in touch with Nature and claim a rocky enclave of coast all to yourself. It is a region where you can easily lose all connection with and sense of the modern world; the perfect getaway, where donkeys are still the main source of transport and sun-bleached stone cottages sit in total silence. Farther up the coast, Itanos, an ancient town known as the Deserted City, and the neighbouring Vai beach lie just to the north of the Roussolakos archaelogical site, at the island’s north-eastern edges. Both can be crammed with visitors in summer, but are certainly worth a detour should you be in the area.
Staying on the northern coast, Rethimno, with its moodily impressive fort and alluring beach front, is a big tourist spot, though ideal for a little light shopping and a rest at a pavement café for a drink and a rest to plan your next move. The ruins at Agia Triada and Knossos are both waiting to be explored (though the latter, said to include the remains of the Minoan labyrinth, can be busy at peak times). Vamos, nestled at the feet of the White Mountains, is a real gem—a preserved, traditional, stone village and home to the I Sterna Tou Bloumosifis taverna, with a menu including wild fennel pie and a squid-and-olive risotto. Souda Bay and in particular the Kiani Akti beach, is a notable exception that proves the rule, but generally most of the stretch along here, especially hugging the coast, tends to be geared towards mass tourism. A jaunt southwards is perhaps more rewarding for the discerning visitor.
You can merrily work your way along the coast and back inland (and up the mountains) at your leisure here, safe in the knowledge that you will stumble across a diverting location or two. The small seaside village of Myrtos is a typical Cretian charmer, full of lively locals and with a small pebbled bay. The nearby Selakano forest, rich with pine and cypress, cutting through the Dikti mountains, will give you another perspective on this multi-faced island. Stop off at the Stella kafeneion (‘cafe’) in Selakano village for a chilled drink and quick meal of goat served with beans. The beaches here tend to be a little wilder, though no less seductive for that, and there are also the rocky coves of Matala, where outward-bound types go kayaking and hiking (though more fool them, eh?).
Restaurants in the main towns of Chania and Iraklion can sadly be a tad hit-and-miss (though Odos Egeou, sitting in the harbour at Iraklion is worth seeking out). This is a shame, because there are plenty of culinary treats to be had, more so if you come with a sense of adventure. One of the best is to catch a boat from Sfakia harbour and head towards Loutro, just along the coast. It is then a short walk to Finikas Bay, setting for the Old Phoenix restaurant, where you can settle down for some hearty Cretian fare, all the greatest hits from pan-fried wild goat to fresh fish and goats cheese drizzled with honey. Back up in the mountains, in the village of Pefki, drop in on Piperia for some classic comfort food, with a nerati, a pie made with cheese and honey (that very Cretian combo again) something of a signature dish, washed down with a carafe or two of wine.
Rounding your way back up towards the northern side of the island, Ayios Nikolaos has now given itself over to the tourist. The former fishing village still retains a sense of its more tranquil past in places however and, if you can bear the thought of coach parties and ‘disco pubs’, do give it a go, if only to settle down to dinner at Itanos (for some rabbit casserole), Pelagos (squid) or over on the less hectic Elounda, Vritomartes (for more seafood, with a house speciality of red mullet).
On, then, to Mykonos—a blissful blend of lazy, sun-drenched days and endless hedonistic nights; a long-favoured getaway for the glamour crowd (Jackie Onassis was a fan) currently enjoying an upturn in style status that has seen it steadily reclaimed by the glossy mag set. Where it was all once package tour day trippers and gap-year ravers packing out the slightly grubby centre of Mykonos Town, or Chora, as the locals call it, now stands a sleek parade of chic boutique hotels, swanky bars and serious restaurants (and mercifully the volume has been turned down a notch or two on the DJ turntables). Most of the action centres on Chora, but elsewhere there is much to enjoy on an island where time seems to stand still: the iconic windmills dotted all over the landscape, lantern-lit terraces in white-washed villages, winding rocky trails, a stray bleating goat, sandy beaches looking out towards the deep blue Aegean Sea and bobbing wooden fishing boats hugging the coastline.
Myknonos beaches all have their own identities; Paranga tends to attract the back-packing end of things and Paradise is a magnet for New Age groovers (surely that name alone should set alarm bells ringing), Ornos and Megali Ammos are big with holidaying families, Agios Sostis, on the west of the island, has the added bonus of the excellent restaurants Kiki’s and Ai Yianni (see below). The current fashionable spot is at Psarou, which is also home to a well-stocked day spa. Fishermen will transport you to some of the more secluded stretches of sand, with both Platis Gialos and Elia recommended, though do be warned, there are no bars or places to eat and you will be left to your own devices. Should you tire of all that beach culture (you never know), escape to the shaded greenery of the lush gardens of Agrari, near the beach of the same name.
The cobbled Matoyannia district of Chola has a parade of big-label boutiques, small art galleries and the occasional church, where moneyed Athenians rub shoulders with perma-tanned Eurocrats. Most of the nightlife action tends to congregate around the buzzy quarter of Alefkandra, increasingly know in guide books as Little Venice, down on the waterfront and home to a number of superior honey pots, including sushi pleasure palace Nobu and, for a more authentic taste of local flavours, the chichi surrounds of Sea Satin Market, a few doors down from the Mitropolis Cathedral, with its dining room facing out to sea. Pick of the myriad bars dotted around are Tria Pigadia, Montparnasse and Kastro.
The local cuisine makes use of the resident livestock and seafood and likes to keep things nice and simple. Kiki’s restaurant, over on Agios Sostis beach, has no phone and serves only lunch, but is an unmissable experience and, despite its seeming reluctance to advertise its existence to the outside world (there’s no signage either, but all the locals know it and chances are there’ll be a small gathering of discerning diners waiting for a table), remains a hugely popular spot for an al fresco barbecue out on the beach. Fresh-grilled octopus comes with a salad of lentils and artichokes, chicken breast is stuffed with feta and sun-dried tomatoes. Nearby, Ai Yianni is another excellent spot for refuelling (great bar too), while back in Chola, Nikos (a classic taverna), Camares Cafe (for lamb chops infused with thyme) and Kounelas (fresh-caught fish) are all worth seeking out.
Catch a boat from the harbour and set aside a day to visit the archaeological ruins on Delos, one of two neighbouring islands (the other, Rhenia, though larger in size is not quite so vital), said to be the birthplace of Apollo, and including a temple dedicated to the multi-talented god, as well as magnificent marble lions and the House of Dionysus.
Chios, sitting in the north Agean, is the less well known of the three locations and, in its own small way, possibly the most rewarding. It is certainly the most naturally rich of the Greek islands, with a woody, fertile landscape and vibrant ambience that sharpens your senses with its changing backdrop of colours and aromas. Citrus fruits abound, while the main industry here is based on the production of gum mastic (the stuff that goes in everything from chewing gum to ice cream); the place has a faint whiff of ouzo, wherever you go.
There is the very real sense that you are on the edge of Europe, a distinctly Oriental feel permeating the whole island (the Byzantine Museum in Chios Town will provide you with the necessary history lesson). It is a place that remains wonderfully unspoilt, with most of the tourism here coming from holidaying Greeks. Daskalopetra beach, close to Chios Town, is one of the island’s best, or there’s the quieter Agia Markella, with a couple of beach-front tavernas where you can take a break from all that lying out in the sun. Elinda, over on the south-west coast, has incredible black pebbles, created from the lava of a nearby volcano.
Chios Town is a picturesque port on the east coast (and Homer’s birthplace), complete with busy, colourful harbour, and is a decent point to orientate oneself and start exploring the island. The valley of Kambos, over towards the east coast, is a beautiful region where Genoese villas can be glimpsed between rolling hills and citrus and olive groves. It is a very fashionable spot for Greeks to buy a rural getaway and has the upmarket air of parts of Provence or Tuscany. Be sure to visit Pyrgi, some 25km south of Chios Town, with its stunning black and white geometric patterns (hand engraved using sand) which adorn all of this extraordinary fortified village’s buildings (including the church). Deep in the heart of the island, the rocky outpost of Anavatos stands empty, in tribute to the tens of thousands of Chians slaughtered by Ottoman troops in 1822. Mesta, southwest of Chios Town, is a perfectly preserved mediaeval settlement (complete with castle), with quiet, narrow cobbled streets and stone arches leading to a central square. The nearby Apothyka beach is one of the island’s best.
Food scientists have meticulously studied the eating habits and cooking techniques of generations of bemused Chians to learn the secrets of a life-extending diet. The lucky locals have been brought up on a healthy diet of fresh fruit, vegetables, pulses and nuts, figs, myzithra cheese (similar to ricotta), preserved-fruit sweets and yoghurt by the bucket load. The island’s best eateries tend to be family-run tavernas with plates of mezedes spread out on the table. Taverna Mesaionas, on the main square in Mestas, is a lively spot to tuck into simple seasonal dishes, while Tzivaeri, perched on the port at Chios Town, serves up some fine seafood, including a shrimp pie and just-caught sardines. Other recommendations are the Zikos Taverna, in the small port town of Limnia, and Makellos, in the village of Pityos, famed for its hand-rolled macaroni. For some classic street food, try one of the many pita-diners that can be found about the place—and do be sure to leave room for some of those sweets.
Where to Stay:
Avli Lounge Apartments, Rethymnon, Crete
Kivotos Hotel, Ornos Bay, Mykonos
Argentikon Luxury Suites, Kambos, Chios |
