TRAVEL: Odyssey to an Italian idyll
‘Positano bites deeply,’ John Steinbeck wrote, and so it does. Sit on a terrace overlooking the deep blue bay, its bobbing boats, the Isle of Capri, and feel as if you are in the lap of the gods.
 THE Amalfi Coast, near the Sorrentine Peninsula of Italy, is a poet’s dream—steep cliffs plunging into a dazzling blue sea, picturesque Italian towns and dark pebbled beaches, and Positano, once home to Pablo Picasso and John Steinbeck, is one of Italy’s most beautiful seaside towns.
With some of the most inspirational views on the entire coast, it seems to sum up the region—affluent and chic, busy and energetic, bursting with boutiques and luxury hotels and tourists, and yet absurdly picturesque and offering delightful and unexpected solitude.
Perched on a pair of dramatic cliffs overlooking the Tyrrhenian Sea, it has a boundless depth of character that makes you forget the bustle.
To explore this stunning coastline in peace, you can take to the hills, or to the sea. The cliffs above Positano reveal some of Italy’s most beautiful walking trails, which few visitors ever see.
From these trails you are surrounded by nothing but clean air, sunshine and bucolic Italian splendour. The market gardens on the cliff-top plateau smell sweet with fruits and herbs. They plunge into fairytale forests of pines, emerging every few minutes to reveal stupendous views of the Amalfi cliffs framed by a blazing blue sea and sky. The sight tempts you to go out in a boat.
 Positano is home to Cassiopea, a specialist sea-based touring company run by three brothers from an old-established local family. With their intimate knowl-edge of the coastal waters, they are the best of guides for a boat cruise or fishing trip, and Capri is top of any list of destinations.
True, this romantic island is a tourist magnet, but the views are unmarred, Capri still has its quiet places, and the brothers make sure you see the best of the island on the way. They make several stops, one to the famous Blue Grotto, another to the cool waters of the Green Grotto, where you can swim from the boat, arriving at Capri with plenty of time to experience the island.
 To escape the crowd, wander along the idyllic deserted pathways running beside cactus-covered cliffs and whitewashed Arabian houses overlooking the bay. Or take a bus up the steep road to Capri’s bluff- top village, Siren Heights, 1,080ft above the Bay of Naples. Or explore the Villa Jovis, the imperial villa from which Tiberius ruled the Roman Empire, and the Augustus Gardens. As this is such a fashion- conscious island there is no end to the luxuries you can buy in town before boarding the boat home.
On the way the brothers will take you to see the White Grotto and Marvellous Grotto, and to admire the Natural Arch, passing through beautiful and mythical Faraglioni, with time for an afternoon swim on the Sorrento coast. On another day, they will escort you on a sunset cruise through the enchanting Li Galli islands, one of which was owned by Rudolf Nureyev. This is where the Sirens of Homer’s famous Odyssey dwelt, luring sailors to a shipwreck death with their mesmerising song. You will stop at the fishing village of Nerano for lunch and, later, for a candlelit dinner of seafood and local wine as the sun sets over the sea.
 There are 10 beaches in and around Positano itself. Spiaggia Grande is the largest, where the tourists mingle with local fishermen cleaning their boats and mending nets. To the west is the less- crowded Spiaggia di Fornillo, which you can reach by walking the impossibly beautiful Via Positanesi d’America leading from Spiaggia Grande. But as the Cassiopea men are local people, they can arrange private visits to the string of small, pretty beaches lying east of Positano, separated by coves—La Porta, Fiumicello, Arienzo, San Pietro, and Laurito—mostly accessible only by boat. The brothers can also organise anything else you like, from painting to cooking, a limoncello visit, or Pompeii.
Five days will allow you to see the absolute ‘musts’ after Capri — Sorrento, Amalfi itself, Pompeii and Ravello. Whatever else you do, Ravello is unmissable. Book a classical concert in the gardens of the Villa Rufolo. As you sit, high in the mountains overlooking the sea, listening to the strains of Wagner rising up from the gardens below, you will dream of staying here for ever.
THE HOTEL
Far away from the bustle of the piazzas and beaches, the family-run Montemare Hotel stands in a small corner of Positano. You need only follow the winding narrow street carved out of the mountainside to discover it—and one of the most enchanting sea views in the world.
Papà Vito, known locally as O Capitano, a man who loved hospitality, founded this hidden gem of an hotel 52 years ago. Antonio Cannavacciuolo has followed in his footsteps as host, and his staff are warm and friendly, as well as speaking excellent English.
The restaurant terrace, where you will be served delicious fresh breakfasts, has one of the finest views in Italy: it feels as if you are floating in the wonderful coastal landscape. The 20 guest rooms also have private balconies or terraces, and are light, peaceful, and simply furnished in modern Mediterranean style. Each has air- conditioning, direct-dial telephone, cable-satellite television, safe and bar. All rooms are en-suite, with showers, and suites have Jacuzzi-style hydro-massage baths. Traditional Mediterranean specialities are served in Il Capitano restaurant (Antonio’s pride and joy), and authentic Neapolitan dishes in the Pizzeria. The views as you dine overlooking the bay are worth a small fortune in themselves.
THE OFFER
Members can enjoy a five-night holiday for two people sharing a standard room for a total 780€ each (£619 at current exchange rate), including daily breakfasts, return private transfers from Naples airport (Capodichino) to Positano, and two Cassiopea cruises: a day’s trip to the Isle of Capri and a sunset cruise including dinner and wine. For half board, add 28€ (£23) each per night. The total saving is more than 25% off the rack rate. The offer is open until October 31, when the hotel closes for winter. For special Club rates without the cruises, for different room types and for alternative hotels in Positano, Ravello or Sorrento, please call Member Services on 020 7291 8600. Flights are not included, but can be arranged on your behalf at the best prices.
|
