 IN the making of a gentleman’s suit, the terms ‘bespoke’ and ‘made-to- measure’ are not interchangeable. ‘Bespoke’ dates from 17th century Savile Row, when tailors held full lengths of cloth on their premises. A customer having chosen a length, it had ‘been spoken for’. Hence a tailor who makes your clothes individually, to your specific requirements, is ‘bespoke’. A ‘made-to-measure’ suit is merely made from a basic template pattern, adjusted to roughly your measurements.
Having got the facts of the matter out of the way, we would like to introduce Graham Browne Tailors, a traditional tailoring firm who build bespoke suits in the City, and have earned a solid reputation as tailor of choice among City bankers, who like to keep such information close to their chests. The head cutter at Graham Browne is Russell Howarth, who has had 23 years’ tailoring experience and runs the business. Graham Browne, the Savile Row tailor who established the firm 40 years ago, is still involved. We unreservedly commend the firm to our members.
The first thing Russell Howarth will do is to ask what type of suit you are looking for, and its uses. Together, you will choose the cloth, the style and fit. He will take more than 20 measurements and figuration details, after which your personal pattern will be hand- drafted and cut from scratch—not a basic, adjusted template pattern, as used by many tailors these days. This is highly scientific. Everything is measured with a ruler to the greatest degree of precision, much like an architectural drawing.
 Using your personal pattern, the cloth will be cut and trimmed, so too the linings. A single tailor then receives the individual parts of the garment to sew together, from the earliest fittings to the finished suit. Each suit is entirely hand-made by him, even down to the button-holes. It will take four to eight weeks.
After the first two weeks you will receive a first fitting, or ‘skeleton baste’. This means that the basic parts of the suit are sewn together using basting thread, the minimal interior construction, canvas and shoulder pads and wadding. This enables the cutter to check the fit of your pattern. After the first fitting, alterations are made to your suit and pattern.
Then comes the ‘forward’ (second fitting). Your suit will now have all the major construction, including pockets and facings, without the collar or sleeves. After this, the suit is finished. Sometimes a third fitting—‘finish bar finish’ (or fin bar fin) is made. At this stage the suit will be completely finished apart from buttonholes and hand felling (sewing).
 You now have a Graham Browne bespoke suit—but because cloth is natural, your cutter will ask to see you again in a few months, to make sure your suit has settled, and that you like it. The aim, as Russell Howarth never tires of saying, is perfection.
THE CLOTH
In 1896, Henry Percy and Frederick Herbert Dugdale established their cloth merchant’s business in Huddersfield, centre of Britain’s worsted industry. Today, Dugdale Brothers still supply cloth made in Huddersfield to tailors across the world, including Graham Browne. They will provide a splendid selection of high-quality cloths to meet your requirements, from the elegant refinement of Super 120s to the best tweed.
THE OFFER
Working in conjunction with Dugdale Brothers, Graham Browne will build you a suit, whether it is a bespoke city suit or a shooting suit. Retail prices normally start at £850. Our Club members will receive an exclusive preferential reduction of 20% on whatever they order. Originally based in Little Britain, next to St Paul’s Cathedral, Graham Browne can now be found at 12 Well Court (off Bow Lane), London EC4. For further details, or to make an appointment, please click here or call Member Services on 020 7291 8600. |
